Inground Outdoor Shelter Manual

1. Measure and mark the desired location. Then, with the aid of a mini excavator, proceed to dig a rectangle hole, 8” to 10” bigger than the shelter itself. For example, if your shelter is 5’W X 7’L X 5’4” H, the pit needs to be 5’ 8” W X 7’ 8” L X 5’.
2. We recommend having the shelter 4” and up to 1’ above the ground, with a slope or an inclination starting on the center.

3. The pit must be perfectly square and level; otherwise, the shelter will not be leveled. Use a shovel to square it.
4. Measure the dimensions of the shelter and the dimensions of the hole, one more time. Make sure that you have the correct dimensions; otherwise, you will need to repeat step #9.
5. Put one small concrete block on each corner of the hole and make sure they are leveled. The shelter will be placed on top of them; this will leave about a 5” to 6” gap on the bottom for the concrete to penetrate underneath the unit.
6. Install 6 heavy-duty stakes horizontally on the bottom of the long walls, 3 per side.

7. Cover the bottom and walls of the pit with heavy-duty plastic, use the tape to secure the entire hole, and prevent water from entering. Make small holes so the stakes can be exposed and then covered surrounding with tape.
8. Attach heavy-duty cables or a strap and leave it on the side. Once you place the shelter inside the hole, these cables will secure the shelter in place, and when you pour the concrete into the pit, the shelter will not float. Install a minimum of 3 holding cables for the medium and large units, 4 for the jumbo.
9. Using the 2x4s, place the wood frame around the shelter one foot bigger than the shelter itself, put plenty of wood stakes around it.

10. Using the heavy-duty chain, lift the shelter with the excavator. Make sure that the chain is secured to prevent any accidents.
11. Slowly lower the shelter into the pit and fit it into place, ensuring the unit is leveled and is 4” to 10” above the future concrete slab level.
12. With the shelter in place, tie it down using the cables or TORSHEL STORM SHELTERS 3 straps; cover the sharp corners of the shelter, so that they won’t damage the rope or cables. Ensure that they are secured and very tight; otherwise, the concrete going underneath the shelter will create a lot of pressure and push it up. If this step is not done properly, the shelter will float, and it will be a disaster.

13. Install steel rebar on the top and the sides of the shelter. At this point, you are ready to pour concrete. Ensure that the cables are well tightened and secure. Ask the truck operator to pour the concrete as thin (wet) as possible.

14. Start on one side, and then go to the opposite side. Use the concrete vibrator to make sure that the concrete reaches all the spots.
15. Get inside the shelter, use a rubber hammer, and hit the floor to make sure the concrete is filling the bottom of the shelter.
16. Go slowly on one side. If you were looking at a clock, go to 12, then to 6, then to 3 then, to 9. You need to pour a little bit of concrete on one side, then go to the opposite side, and so on, always making sure that the shelter does not move. If you pour one side only, the concrete will move the unit, and it will be tough to square and level it again.